Week Eight (ii) - Dresden and Prague!

Fri 1.3. 13:

Our train to Dresden was set to leave at 6:55 and, well, I woke up at 6:50 to a call asking where I was - crud. The next train left in two hours, so I decided to quickly get a run in along the river. I did make that train and arrived in Dresden by 11. I only really missed a tour of the Glasernemanufaktur (transparent assembly plant) and VW production plant, and since I'd seen the BMW plant Wednesday, I wasn't terribly bummed out. I met up with the others right before lunch, but I wasn't yet hungry so I rushed into the Neues Grünes Gewölbe, featuring quite possibly the most impressive collection of gold and jewels I've seen in one place. These were my favorite pieces:
 - a two foot tall rolling-ball clock of intricately worked gold and inlaid gems

 - large plates of clear Venetian reticulated glass (I'm not sure what that is, but that's what the placard said) inlaid with crystal patterns

 - several large cabinets of gold, encrusted everywhere with precious stones

 - an immense tea set lined with - can you guess? - gold and detailed inlays. of course, these were simply for show, and likely not used

 - a golden Egyptian palace, replete with an obelisk, crocodiles and other animals, and treasure troves of jewels

 - and the following items as well

There were two sculptures of Herakles holding the world, one with continents and oceans, one with a star chart!
Also, this huge ship is 100% ivory - the detail on it was insane!

One of the largest items on display - an entire Sultan's palace, with impeccable attention to detail even down to
the facial expressions on the merchants and court-goers. Also, at the top and on the pavilion there are dragons!

The Dresden Green Diamond, worked into its hat clasp of white brilliants.
Specs: 41 karats! Weighs roughly 8grams; measures roughly 3x2x1cm

After only 50 minutes in the exhibit (I still contend it is one of the most impressive collections in the world), I rejoined the others, and we collectively saw the statue of Martin Luther, the Semper Oper (opera house), and the Zwinger palace and Glockenspiel (bell clock). Next we split into groups, and Cemile led our group to the Festung (fortress), which turned out to be mostly the underground remnants. It was cool, but if I'd known what it was, I probably would've opted for a different group.

How do I get out of here?!

The Moritz Monument (1555) honors the fortress's creator

We finished early, so I recommended we all see the Neues Grünes Gewölbe, especially since I'd only snuck a peek in the Rüstkammer (armory), Turkische Kammer (oriental collection), and exhibit from Ivan the Terrible's reign! The Rüstkammer was impressive for a one-room display, featuring eight life-sized horses bedecked out in full jousting attire. Around the room were numerous knights in various combat positions (we found two suits, clearly intended for children, smaller even than Susan!) as well as cabinets upon cabinets of swords, scimitars, shields, and the like.
The Turkische Kammer offered a roomful of weapons (including reflex bows) and several oriental carpets - the most iconic is this 20x8x6meter three mast tent of gold and silk!

The interior design was equally intricate

I was particularly intrigued to see items from Ivan the Terrible's palace collection, and was amused to note that most objects were either military/ceremonial items or plates, goblets, and the like. Everything was beautifully ornate, from the gem-inlaid sceptre and shield to the six-foot tall gold and silver centerpiece. I also was impressed by a magnificent double goblet adorned with a pair of eagles (connected to his lineage, or personal crest, I think?).

The gift shop had Hieronymous Bosch figurines
on display! Dad would've loved these :)

Bookman! (and part of Fruitman) - by Arcimboldo

Everyone met at 5 for dinner at a place featuring specialties from Bavaria, Saxony, and Austria, and of course we toasted our program sponsors, coordinators, and other benefactors that could make this happen. We all enjoyed our dishes - I tried a roast chicken and a light beer - and then we rushed off to catch our train to Prague. En route, our compartment devolved into a four-person cuddle pile as we attempted to sleep - the conductor gave us a strange look when he came by to check tickets!

Building tops near the Dresden main square

Decorative arch at the Semper Oper entrance

Nutcrackers and other figurines in the window of a toy shop!

After changing money and picking up our housekey, we wandered around Prague for an hour, simply appreciating the beautiful illuminated views across the city before crashing.

Memorial to the victims of Communism

Our first glance at Prague Castle!

Sat 2.3.13: 

We got to Old Town around 10 and went up the tower for panoramic views of city. It was sunny so we could see miles of red roofs (strangely reminiscent of Stanford!) punctuated by towering castles and churches. We also learned that the Astronomical Clock features four figures abhorred at the time: Vanity, Greed, Death, and... a Turk? Strange but true! 

Prague crystal-ware

Series of crests and emblems adorning these shields

In Old Town Square, in front of the Astronomical Clock and with Týn Church on the far right 

Overlooking Prague

We snagged some street vendor sausages and then returned to the apartment to let Esther in (she'd left her passport in Berlin so had to go back) but she was delayed so we set off again. We just wandered and wandered, enjoying the gorgeous architecture and hidden monuments. The afternoon's highlights:
 - the Dancing House
 - posing as a K-Pop band in front of a stern-looking monument
 - Wenceslas Square and the National Museum
 - Woodrow Wilson Memorial (I hadn't realized there was one)
 - waiting for the bells to ring at Jindrisska Tower (when they didn't ring, Sarah asked the guy staffing the entrance, "Are there any other places that ring?" - the guy gave us a very confused look)
 - finding a small alleyway with art, stuffed animals, funnily designed furniture, and other random things
 - exploring the foyer of a really fancy restaurant/hotel
 - Old Town Bridge Tower and Charles Bridge (graced by 30 statues)
 - the John Lennon Wall (my personal signature was "Imagine (if) all the people // Across the universe (just) // Let it be")
 - Sarah: "Let's go see some butts!" and Lulu: "You promised me butts but you're only giving me babies!" (artist David Cerny creates strange, provocative installations, one of which is massive butts through which observers can climb up to and peer into; another of which is a series of creepy crawling babies. I'd thought we could find the butts but we never did)
 - peeing men installation (also David Cerny) in front of the Kafka Museum
 - discussing our porn star alter egos... apparently I am Pierre Star. And Sarah, aka Castilleja Cookie, remarked, "Thank you for your services" after Lulu and Molly helped to spank the dust off of her

Dancing house - funky architecture!

Wenceslas Square - business center of New Town

In front of the National Museum

Ads for the British Museum - monocles and mustaches :D

More architectural beauty

An Olliephant!

Sunlight on the Charles Bridge

Sarah, Molly, Susan, Lulu, and me signed the John Lennon Wall

We returned to the apartment at 6, welcomed Esther after her traveling ordeal, and headed out to dinner. Sadly, we were very disappointed with the service treatment - the first place we tried kept shunting us to different rooms and tables, and eventually told us there was no room, and the place we ended up eating at tacked on several underhanded charges and refused to negotiate. That said, our dishes were pretty darn good - I had roast duck with cabbage and apple sauce - so it worked out, though we were quite frustrated by the principle of the matter. Afterward, we basically retraced our afternoon route for Esther's benefit, so we saw Old Town and the Charles Bridge at night before retiring.

Dumplings, croquettes, and Czech cake for dessert!

Esther: "I think it says, 'Watch your kids
because there's pedophiles around here'"

Tyn Church illuminated at night

View of St. Nicholas Cathedral along the Charles Bridge

Last note: at the bridge covered with locks (representing love, often marked with two lovers' names), two different interpretations: 1) "Man, I wish I had a boyfriend," vs. 2) "I wonder how many of these people are divorced."

Sun 3.3.13:

I woke up 5:45 for a morning run, and got several glorious sunrise pictures!

The Moon dances with the Dancing House

Rosy ribbons reflect upon shadowed silhouettes

We found the babies!

Sun spotted over sparkling snow!

Garden entrance at Prague Castle

Moon, tower, red roofs, and castle!

Garden house in the park

Picturesque panorama of Prague!

At 9, we had a lovely, sedate breakfast at The Louvre Restaurant; a few people tried the Czech breakfast (thin slices of meat and cheese with croissants) though I stuck to boring old scrambled eggs, muesli and yogurt. Then we headed to Prague Castle! We arrived in time to witness the changing of the guard - your typical ceremony, with regally-dressed, stoic-faced guards in perfect step to majestic music. One of the guards, the girls decided, was extremely handsome, so they snagged as many photos of their 'Comrade Charming' as they could :)

I'm just as imposing, right?

The troops exit after the changing of the guard

In front of the cathedral within the castle

Saint Wenceslas' crown (1344): gold, pearl, sapphire, ruby, emerald, aquamarine, rubellite tourmarine, spinel, cameo

Once inside, we walked around the expansive courtyard and explored a few of the adjoining buildings. The first featured several house crests and objects from the crown treasury, including the above crown and a bohemian sceptre and orb. We also stood in the room from which the Defenestration of Prague happened! Next we saw one of the castle's churches and then we progressed to Golden Lane, preserved to maintain its quaint feel. The houses on the ground floor were adorned as they would have been: uniforms in the soldier's quarters; skulls, books, and other trinkets in the physic's; and various ales and barrels in the tavern keeper's. The second story featured a collection of weapons and armor and even a torture chamber room! We explored each of the small rooms and shops, checked out the dungeon (with more torture devices), and even the Toy Museum (said to be the second largest in the world of its kind), which featured life-size Star Wars and Superman figures, as well as several collections of smaller figurines.

Skeleton guardian in the church's crypt

Lulu and I play-acting with artillery

Please - be seated!

View from the castle ramparts

After gazing out across the city from our lofty vantage point, we regrouped (after a brief 'ninja' interlude! Lulu and I as joint winners) in a small cafe for 'lunch' - I got a tiramisu haha. Then we walked to Petrin Hill, stopping intermittently in side shops and parks (we got distracted for 15ish minutes by peacocks!), took the funicular up and walked down - great views!

Dungeon rock! We took pictures from the top

Illuminated funicular with Prague Castle as a backdrop

Funicular track as darkness fell

Dessert!

We ended our descent at a playground and laughed at our kid-like tendencies before heading back to the Communism memorial and then to our apartment. After a quick regroup and massage we walked to Old Town for street food (more sausages and potatoes with bacon) and a relaxing evening. We picked up tortes and macaroons from a dessert place, and then finally headed back to the apartment, had an absinth-aided massage party, and then slept.